It’s the era of foodies, epicureans, ambitious young chefs and molecular gastronomes, of lavish cookbooks and close-ups of edible rarities, small plates and “real” Mexican food, of celebrities who cook – and of sin, sin, sin.

Eating, it must be said is the new sex.

There’s the obvious metaphor where food-pleasure stands in for bed-pleasure – melted chocolate trickling down chins, of the camera’s fetish with chewing and eating and the closed-eye shots of pure pleasure. But there’s more.

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